It's a question I asked myself each time I passed the hopping joint in Mesa: What's the deal with Pete's Fish and Chips? The drive-thru in the Glendale location is so busy it literally blocks traffic on Glendale Avenue because the line extends onto the street. It's hard not to have one's curiosity peaked. I took the next step in my usual eatery-hunting and looked Pete's up online where I found a plethora of less-than-favorable reviews. So, I tried to tell myself, "That's that", and move on. But somewhere in the back of my mind Pete remained. I posed the question ("What's with Pete's Fish and Chips?") to friends that grew up in Arizona. Surely they would have some insight into what all the buzz is about. Again, I was met with overall bland opinions. It seemed no one I spoke with really understood what the deal
was. Yet the crowds never dispersed...
It was a beautiful day in December. I had just come from the Mesa LDS Temple and was 8.5 months pregnant, starving, and on my own for lunch. Was today the day I would finally answer the question? Yes it was. I pulled into Pete's Fish and Chips (not an easy move trying to maneuver the drive-thru crowd) and stood in line. I then noticed the "Cash Only" sign and left, thinking, "Never mind, you know it's not going to be good anyway..." Then I noticed an ATM next door. "Ok, just give it a try." Five minutes later I'm back in line... scanning the menu... affordable prices... remembering the warning my Arizonan friends had given me not to ask for ketchup or malt vinegar.... My turn is up. I order 2 pieces of fish and chips. My order arrives: Moment of truth. And I have to admit, I am pleasantly surprised! But am I actually enjoying the food, or are my pregnancy cravings clouding my judgement?
Flash forward 6 months: A hot, but tolerable, slightly breezy day in June. I'm looking for fun activities to fill our time and restaurants/drives that are conducive to sneak-attacking my 5.5 month-old into a much needed nap. A perfect chance to give Pete's a second go-around, and to take another objective eater with me. My sneak-attack nap plan worked great. The little man fell asleep in the stroller ride walking a couple of blocks through downtown Glendale to Pete's. The breeze made the outdoor eating bearable (barely). It was shaping up to be a good day. We order. The food arrives.
So, let's ask that age-old question again: What's the deal with Pete's Fish and Chips?! Here's my verdict. I really can't argue with any of the negative reviews I read. They really are fish sticks, not remotely traditional fish and chips. It is dirty. Ketchup and malt vinegar are not an option. The staff is pretty curt.
But... there is a but. I watched an episode of Parts Unknown last night where Anthony Bourdain shamefully enjoyed Frito Pie in New Mexico. So here's to you Tony: I shamefully enjoyed my meal at Pete's! And there's no pregnancy judgment-clouding to blame this time around. Here are the positives I see: Isn't there something great and American about those dirty, dives that have been family traditions for several generations? As I watched the clientele at Pete's, it was not your typical food-snob: It was families, friends, and couples of various walks-of life, all of whom shared a common love of this bizarrely comforting comfort food. I didn't even grow up coming to Pete's, but I found eating there strangely homey, like it was a place I had been coming since I was a child. The food was served hot. The fish was moist, and the crunch was fantastic. I loved the breading! It wasn't greasy at all; and while the seasoning was on the mild-side, it was sufficient. I found the kick in their special sauce (essentially a watered down mix of ketchup and cocktail sauce) to be, again, surprisingly delicious. I kept dipping. I wanted more.
The deal with Pete's Fish and Chips is this: It's comfort food that you will never be able to qualify by descriptions of its flavor or authenticity. Pete's isn't remotely the best fish and chipper (in fact, it's hard for me to even actually call them fish and chips) you will find in the valley. But Pete's is an Arizona staple, and a staple that I can say was a pleasant surprise. I'm glad I ate there to answer the question for myself.